An Igbo elder from Awka with wooden head dress, set with pearl buttons, c. 1910-11

Igbo ArchivesArchivesAn Igbo elder from Awka with wooden head dress, set with pearl buttons, c. 1910-11
Igbo Elder with Wooden Head Dress, 1912
Igbo Elder with Wooden Head Dress, 1912 © MAA Cambridge

This black and white photograph from 1912 by British anthropologist Northcote Whitridge Thomas, features an Igbo elder from Öka (Awka) adorned with a distinctive wooden head dress set with pearl buttons, referred to as “isi ojongo.” This traditional attire, particularly the isi ojongo, embodies the essence of Igbo identity and artistic expression. The photograph is part of the Northcote Thomas photo album from the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (MAA) in Cambridge.


Igbo Elder from Awka on Oche Mpata, 1912.
Igbo Elder from Awka on Oche Mpata, 1912 © MAA Cambridge

This black and white photograph from 1912 by British anthropologist Northcote Whitridge Thomas, features the same Igbo elder from Öka (Awka). The elder is wearing a patterned sarong around the waist and has two large, white bands wrapped around each leg just below the knee. These white bands, known as “mgba ụkwụ,” are traditional leg ornaments that signify purity and high status. The background shows tropical foliage, indicating a warm climate typical of the Igbo region.The elder is seated on an “oche mpata,” a stool reserved for titled individuals, particularly those with the Ọzọ title. This title signifies success, honesty, and integrity. Women who held the Ọzọ title were respected leaders and played crucial roles in maintaining social order and cultural traditions. This photograph is part of the Northcote Thomas photo album from the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (MAA) in Cambridge.


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Igbo Women’s Hairstyles: A Rich Heritage of Culture and Art

Igbo women’s hairstyles have long been a symbol of cultural identity, artistry, and social status. These hairstyles, which have evolved over centuries, are not merely about aesthetics but also about conveying deeper cultural meanings. This post explores the historical significance, materials and techniques, cultural context, and modern relevance of Igbo women’s hairstyles, showcasing their rich heritage and enduring legacy.


Historical Significance

Igbo hairstyles have always been an integral part of the community’s cultural heritage. Historically, these hairstyles signified various aspects of a woman’s life, including her marital status, age, social status, and even spiritual beliefs. The intricate designs and the use of various materials in these hairstyles reflect the creativity and artistry of the Igbo people.


The Iconic Isi Ojongo

Isi Ojongo is one of the most elaborate and culturally significant hairstyles among the Igbo. Traditionally, it was worn by both men and women, although it is more commonly associated with women today. The hairstyle is characterized by its crested design, often adorned with ornaments such as feathers, shells, beads, and coins. The process of creating Isi Ojongo is intricate and requires a high level of skill and patience.


The Ishi Owu

Ishi Owu, also known as African threading, is another traditional Igbo hairstyle that has stood the test of time. This style involves wrapping sections of hair with black thread, creating a unique and protective hairstyle. Ishi Owu is not only aesthetically pleasing but also serves to stretch and protect the hair, promoting growth and health. Married women in rural areas have used this method for generations and continue to do so.


Cultural Context and Significance

In Igbo culture, hairstyles like Isi Ojongo and Ishi Owu were not just for special occasions but were a part of everyday life. The community deeply embedded them in its social and cultural fabric. These hairstyles could indicate a woman’s marital status, age, or even her role within the community. The elaborate designs and the use of various adornments made these hairstyles a significant part of Igbo identity.


Materials and Techniques

Creating an Isi Ojongo or Ishi Owu hairstyle involves a variety of materials and techniques. Women used thread, feathers, shells, bones, wood, beads, and even Igbo currency to adorn their hair. The process included pleating, plaiting, and sometimes incorporating other objects to achieve the desired look. Palm oil and charcoal were commonly used to style and maintain the hair. Additionally, mud containing colorful ores, yellow and red camwood powder or paste, and palm oil and charcoal were also used for styling. These hairstyles were not only forms of personal expression but also ways to connect with cultural traditions and ancestors.


Traditional Accessories

Igbo women’s hairstyles were often complemented by a variety of traditional accessories that enhanced their beauty and cultural significance. These adornments were not merely decorative but also carried deep cultural and symbolic meanings, reflecting the wearer’s identity and status within the community.


Bone Hair Ornaments

Intricately carved bone hair ornaments were another significant accessory in Igbo hairstyling. These ornaments were made from bones and showcased detailed craftsmanship. They were used to decorate the hair, adding an element of elegance and tradition. Each piece often carries symbolic meanings, and people carefully choose them to complement the hairstyle and the occasion.


Hair Pins

Hair pins, long and thin with intricate designs, were essential tools for securing elaborate hairstyles. These pins were not only functional but also decorative, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall look. The designs of the hair pins varied, with some featuring intricate patterns and others being adorned with small ornaments, reflecting the artistic flair of the Igbo people.


Leg Anklets

Leg anklets, typically crafted from metal rings, were a common accessory worn by Igbo women. These anklets served as symbols of social status and were frequently used in traditional dances. The rhythmic jingling of the anklets added a musical element to the dances, enriching the cultural expression of the performances.


Straw/Cotton Cap/Wig

Another significant accessory in Igbo women’s hairstyling is the straw or cotton cap/wig. This headpiece, intricately woven with geometric and circular patterns, is used during dances and celebratory occasions. The cap is made from straw or cotton and features a conical shape with a long, thin tassel extending from its apex. The intricate weaving showcases the craftsmanship of the Igbo people. Worn during dances and celebrations, this cap/wig adds to the festive atmosphere and highlights the wearer’s cultural identity and heritage.


Modern Relevance and Adaptations

While traditional hairstyles like Isi Ojongo and Ishi Owu are not as commonly seen today, their influence persists. You can still find modern adaptations of these styles, and there is a growing interest in reviving and preserving such cultural practices. These hairstyles remain symbols of pride and identity for many Igbo people, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the community.


Conclusion

Igbo women’s hairstyles, particularly Isi Ojongo and Ishi Owu, are a testament to the creativity, artistry, and cultural significance of the Igbo people. By understanding and appreciating these traditions, we can keep the rich history of the Igbo culture alive for future generations. The enduring legacy of these hairstyles continues to inspire and connect people to their roots.


We’d love to hear from you! Share your own experiences or photos of traditional Igbo hairstyles in the comments below or tag us on social media. Let’s celebrate and preserve this beautiful aspect of Igbo culture together.


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Onyeka Nwokike
Onyeka Nwokike

Onyeka Nwokike is a writer at Igbo Archives, aiming to challenge common misconceptions and broaden our understanding of Igbo heritage. His work involves curating historical photographs and artifacts, bridging gaps in education that mainstream media and school curricula often leave unaddressed. Onyeka's dedication to preserving and celebrating Igbo history enriches the platform's mission, inspiring future generations through the past.

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